But is it because of the writing? Thing that hooks me is the setting and the exploration. There's just so much stuff to do and discover, and a lot of it is genuinely delightful -- the locations, the items, the fights, the sheer variety of everything, plus the way the world feels like it exists on its own terms and not just as a theme park for your benefit (more than in most cRPGs anyway). I can't think of many games since BG2 that have given the feeling that there are secrets to discover behind every door and under every rock. So I'm really digging the worldbuilding and the way it's hooked up to a whole bunch of game systems -- the faction reputations, the impact that has on party relations, and so on.
I have to echo this sentiment. The writing is indeed pretty sub-par as a whole, but what I enjoy is the fleshing out of the setting/lore bits. Don't get me wrong, I do enjoy some of the characters and find them "fun," particularly Xoti and Serafen, and the old bros Aloth and Eder. I've even chuckled out loud a couple of times. But the real draw is exploring this unique setting, finding cool shit, fighting interesting battles, and enjoying the much improved overall design/mechanics of the game.
Also, I'm still only about 15 hours in and haven't felt like I've been grabbed by the throat with the "diversity" aspect. I don't feel like I'm being force fed these things, but rather that they are occurring naturally in the course of the setting. My feeling on this could definitely change though. I don't mind at all if there are gay people in the game I'm playing, and it would actually be kind of weird if there weren't, but it's when I feel like my face is being rubbed in it that I start to get very annoyed.
As for the critical path narrative itself. I'm not particularly interested, but I'm not offended by it either. The idea of a colossus traveling around and essentially acting as a walking Biawac is interesting enough at its core for me to continue following. But I very rarely play RPGs for the main storyline.